Day 24 - Land's End to Lamorna Cove - 12 Miles

Well I was woken up early by one of the kids in a tent up the field, so as I felt quite awake – certainly more awake than I'd expected after 3 bottles of cider – I got up for a shower. No one else had surfaced apart from the tent that had woken me. There was a mist hanging in the valley. It had been cold and so the inside of the tent was sodden with condensation from my breathing. I'd been warm enough in my sleeping bag though, despite the plummeting temperatures. Because of the clear skies, when I'd got up for a wee in the night, the skies were spectacularly starry, the plane of the milky way clearly visible. It was beautiful being away from major light pollution.

Empty wigwam next to my tent, and all is quiet on the campsite as I surface on day 1, with light mist in the valley.

I'd decided on the drive down (and been reinforced by a conversation the previous night in the barn) that I should use my bike rather than public transport to get to or from the end of a day's walking!! It seemed silly not to use it , if I'd bought it all the way down here on the bike rack. So, when I'd showered, I packed the day sack up with food from Tesco's the previous evening, and bike stuff such as a pump and spare tire etc. I put the rack on the car and loaded the bike onto it and was raring to go by just before 8am. I set off down the driveway, even though the one way system was against me, thinking it would be too early for arrivals. Luckily I didn't meet anything coming the other way and I chickened out of disobeying this rule later on in the week, as if you did meet something it would be a long and painful reverse.

I drove down into Helston and from there through Penzance, taking a turn after Newlyn to get to Lamorna Cove. I'd assumed there would be plenty of places to chain up the bike even if I was a bit nervous about leaving it all day somewhere only tied with my flimsy lock. In actual fact, on arrival, it looked dubious that there was anywhere to chain it that was out of the way of the narrow lane to the car park and the café etc. I actually managed to find a signpost out on the small car park beyond the harbour wall – phew! I chained it up and walked back to the car, hoping against hope that it would be still there at the end of my day's walking.

I drove back up the valley to Lamorna turn and turned left towards Land's End , passing villages off to my left, that I would be passing the coastal side of on my cliff walk back to Lamorna Cove and the waiting bike.

I arrived at Land's End – still the same tacky building and amusement park that I had encountered at the end of the walk last year. This time however the views out to sea were splendid – no fog or sea mist this time! I paid my 3 pounds parking charge and parked up, donned my daysack, which was still heavyish because I was carrying 2.5 litres of liquid (the day looked hot ahead), plus all the bike stuff. It was certainly nowhere near as traumatically heavy as a full rucksack with a week's clothes, tent etc etc in it! This year was going to be a breeze… a strolling, relaxing walking holiday doddle for a change! I set off, snapping away with my camera, with a light step.

Pile of chains by the Land's End amusement buildings.

Looking back at Cape Cornwall, which I passed last year in fog and low cloud, from a clear land's End!

Longships Lighthouse off Land's End.

Doctor Syntax's Head with Cape Cornwall beyond.

The Armed Knight rocks just off Land's End.

The Armed Knight again, beyond which I could actually make out the Isles of Scily this time!

Enys Dodnan, the Armed Knight and Longships beyond, from Carn Cheer.

Pordenack Point.

Granite boulders on Carn Boel Point.

The coastal scenery was fantastic – orange/pink granite cliffs and turquoise seas with caves nibbled into the cliffs a plenty. As I walked around Carn Boel headland and headed in towards Mill Bay or Nanjizal, I spotted something bobbing about in the water over a kelp forest. They turned out to be seals. I counted 6 and it was lovely to watch them swimming underwater, silvery and spotted against the dark kelp below. I stood and watched for a while before continuing on my way.

Looking south east from Carn Boel across Mill Bay or Nanjizal to Carn Les Boel and beyond.

Looking back at Carn Boel as I begin the walk around Nanjizal, the seals in the waters below me at this point.

The sandy beach at the far end of Nanjizal

A small natural arch before I begin the walk out onto Carn Les Boel

Looking back across Nanjizal towards Carn Boel from behind the beach.

Looking back across Nanjizal to Carn Boelfrom the walk out onto Carn Les Boel.

Looking across Pendower Coves to the next headland of Carn Barra.

Granite rocky outcrops!

Looking back at Pellitras Point.

Looking ahead across Porth Loe at Carn Guthensbras, the last headland before rounding the corner!

Odd shapes on Gwennap Head as I turn a monumental corner and begin my journey eastwards for the first time!!

The coast around the corner was beautiful, the pink granite cliffs and boulders of Porth Gwarra, with its central turquoise ribbon of sandy bottomed water heading out to sea. Someone floated about down there doing backstroke as I headed inland, descending to the valley bottom.

Above the turquoise waters of Porth Gwarra.

Looking out to sea in the valley bottom at Porth Gwarra.

I begin the climb out of Porth Gwarra.

Looking Back at Carn Scathe on this side of Porth Gwarra and Hellas Point on the far side.

It was a lovely walk along the cliffs to the tiny hamlet of St Levan off to my left. I walked by the stone structure of St Levan's Holy Well, before climbing again, around Ped Men An Mere. The Minack Theatre car park and road was bustling with day trippers. The climb down the steps from there was a bit hair raising! I'm getting old and nervous it seems, but I was quite jelly legged and holding on wherever possible. The beach of Porth Curno below was sandy and busy.

Looking ahead from Carn Barges to the beach of Porth Chapel and the headland of Pedn-Men-An-Mere by the Minack theatre.

Looking back at Carn Barges beyond Porth Chapel from Pedn-men-an-mere.

Minack Head in the foreground and across the bay Pednvounder beach and Logan Rock beyond.

Porth Curno beach from the steep climb down past the Minack Theatre.

Across the bay I could see another sandy beach that I assumed was Pednevounder, a clothing optional beach I'd read about before coming down to Cornwall. AS I was making such good time, I decided I would make a side trip when I got there and go down and get my bits out for a while. God help the others on the beach but hey ho! I'm turning into a bit of a naturist these days it seems!

The climb out of Porth Curno was steep but ok and I took a side path off to the right, further along the cliffs, that I assumed lead down to Pednevounder beach. The write up about the beach, that I'd read had mentioned a difficult descent, but to start with it was quite gentle. I discovered that the very last bit was a scramble down steep rocks.

Looking back at Minack Point after the climb out of Porth Curno.

Looking back west as I near the end of my descent to Pednevounder Beach.

Pednevounder beach at last close at hand.

It seemed that most unclothed people were at the far end of the beach, so I headed down there and joined them. It was only about 12 midday, so I had plenty of time to hang about a bit. I'd not set off walking from Land's End until 9.30 with all the bike dropping off and fairly long drive. I reckoned I was about half way through the day's planned walk already, so definitely plenty of time! I would allow myself until 2pm to get an all over tan, have a swim in the sea etc. The waves were quite powerful. On the edge they pushed you onto the beach as they broke and pulled you back as they rushed back down the beach. It was wonderfully cooling though! With the beating sun and blue skies, I'd been sweating gallons and drinking lots to compensate! I still had some Diet Coke, but would need to start rationing from this point onwards!

While on the beach there came screams of agony from one of the teenagers who'd been playing at the water's edge as I'd clambered down the rocks onto the beach. It looked and sounded serious.. no longer playful squawking… people rushed over to help at that end of the beach and I saw them carry him up the beach away from the water. One of his friends could be seen rushing off, back up the rocks and the remote path to get help from Porth Curno. It turned out he'd broken his leg, not by falling down the rocks, but just twisted it awkwardly in the sand or something! How ironic! A treacherous descent to the beach and he is fine and when playing on the sand.. he breaks his leg!!

I kept looking across to see if anyone was coming back to help and ages seemed to pass! Not a good place to have a medical emergency – so remote and inaccessible! I wondered how on earth they would get him out!! Eventually a bloke on a surfboard paddled round from Porth Curno and others in flourescent jackets climbed in over the rocks. It soon became apparent how he would be rescued, as one of the officials walked along the beach down to my end, pushing people along, saying there would be a helicopter coming in to land on the beach and there would be a lot of sea spray and sandblasting going on! Eek! Talk about dramatic!!!

Sure enough, the rescue helicopter was soon heard and an orange smoke flare was lit. Incredibly, the helicopter reversed in and down with immaculate precision, while everyone looked on in awe and excitement! This process was to be repeated twice more to deliver equipment etc. I presume if it had waited there, flying sand would make helping the victim difficult and maybe the helicopter would sink in the soft sand? It was incredible, but so much for a quiet hour or two on a secluded beach!

At about 2pm after everything had calmed down a bit I got dressed and walked back along the beach, trying to clean my feet of sand in the water, which was coming in almost around the rocks I'd come down on. High tide wasn't til 4pm today, so I don't know what the others did to get off the beach later??

Dramatic Rescue by helicopter from Pednevounder Beach.

I was beginning to tire despite my break. The climb up off the beach was quite tough. I took a right hand fork that rejoined the main coastal path slightly further along than the path I'd taken to climb down to the beach earlier. I took a wrong turn at Logan Rock, taking a path that headed out onto the headland. I soon realised though and retraced my steps.

The climb back up from Pednevounder. Logan Rock the next Headland to round.

Above Pednevounder again at last!

The way ahead from Cribba Head. Tater Du lighthouse at last visible in the distance! A long way still to go! Merthen Point is the first headland followed by Boscawen Point and then Tater Du with its lighthouse last.

Penberth Cove was pretty pink cliffs and boulders with turquoise waters and little fishing boats pulled up the ramp off the beach. A fierce climb out ensued followed by an even worse one up out of Porth Guarnon. From this point on the scenery was less spectacular. There was a gradual descent through lush woods and vegetation to St Loy's Cove. There was a walkers' café and tea rooms amongst it, hidden in the trees and I was half tempted, but carried on down to the large boulders of the beach and had a sit down and the last bit of my liquid for the day!

Before the descent to Penberth Cove.

Honeysuckle.

Looking back towards Penberth Cove from further along near Penberth Gazells.

The Zig Zag climb out of Porth Guarnon ahead to look forward to!!

Looking back from a rest stop on the climb up out of Porth Guarnon!

After a short while, I hopped from boulder to boulder and then ascended fairly gently out of the far end of the bay around to Boscawen Point. At this stage I was really tired on the ups and I was cursing myself for wearing my cheap new boots, as I'd got a blister by the feels of it, on the ball of my right foot, probably not helped by having sand left on my feet from my beach stop! The soles of the new boots are not very thick though, so I could feel the rough rocks! Not a good bargain after all!

The shaded beginning of the climb from St Loy's Cove

The final part of the gentle ascent from St Loy's Cove out to Boscawen Point

Tater Du with its Light house ahead from Boscawen Point

I finally made it to Tater Du and looked down at its white lighthouse, but the last stretch to Lamorna Cove seemed to take ages! The bike was still there when I arrived though which was a relief! By now I was quite tired though and began to wonder if this cycling lark had been a sensible idea! I sat on a bench by the café, which was thankfully still open. I had sandwiches that I'd carried all day in my warm rucksack – ewwwww – and bought a bottle of orange juice and Diet Coke and downed almost all of them there and then!

Tater Du Light house as I pass by the cliffs above it.

Finally Carn Du the headland at the far side of Lamorna Cove comes into view!!

Stone cross on the final approaches to my waiting bike at Lamorna Cove!

I walked the bike up the first steep hill from the harbour and then cycled the rest of the way up the valley. At one point I thought I'd got a puncture, but then realised the sound I'd thought had been hissing air, was in fact crickets and insects! – really noisy in parts of this lush Mediterranean vegetation.

I turned left at Lamorna Turn and gave up trying to cycle up the steep hill there. I was following National Cycle Network Route 3 at this point. At the top of the hill, I remounted and followed the cycle route signs all the way to Land's End. I soon got into my stride and the self generated breeze was lovely and cooling!! It was only gently undulating after the first steep climb from Lamorna turn and so was perfectly doable. I made it back in about an hour, so it was just gone 7pm when I put the rack on the back of the car and set off on the long drive back to the campsite. I got there at just before 8pm. I had a shower and sat outside writing up the diary, rather than going down to the barn to be sociable.

I hoped I would cope ok with the blister on the following day!!!

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)