Day 29 - Cadgwith to Coverack - 7 Miles

I woke up shattered and would have loved a lie in, but couldn't because I'd said that I would drop the car in to be fixed at ATS in Helston at 9am! Sigh! It was a pretty grey and dismal day again, and heavy showers drenched the tent from time to time. When I'd showered I went and sat in the car to write up some diary while Rory dismantled his tent and put it in the car. I found it difficult to even motivate myself to put on walking boots and pack a bag with sensible stuff for the day and put the bike on the back of the car. I'd put the phone on charge while I got ready and went to collect that at about 9am, waving Rory off as I walked across the field to the barn. I followed not long after him while the one way drive was in my favour. I got to ATS at about 9.20am and the bloke said it would take about 2 hours as they were really busy! Sigh! While they sorted the car, I sat in reception catching up on the diary and writing more postcards. The car was finished by about 11.30 and the damage for the cable, fitting and freeing up of the brakes was 58 quid – sigh! Only money that I don't have yet again! While I'd been sitting there I decided I wouldn't be able to walk more than Cadgwith to Coverack today.. a meagre 7 miles, because of a) abject weariness and b) lack of time after all the repairs etc. I drove to the car park at Coverack and left the bike chained to the car park tariff sign. I sat in the car and had some brunch of walnut bread with cream cheese and chives and then drove to Cadgwith car park to leave the car there for later.

It was gone midday by the time that I set off down the footpath to the village and harbour. I set off up the far headland, up past the pub and then cut back between houses along the gently climbing path out to the point at its end. There were nice views back to the pretty village and harbour as I went. The walk was pleasant and as I rounded Enys Head the broad sweep of a new bay came into view, right down to Black Head.

Walking down to the village from the car park in Cadgwith.

Thatched cottages in Cadgwith as I near the harbour.

On the headland path looking back across the cove towards the opposite the Devil's Frying Pan headland.

Looking back at Cadwith village nestled in its valley.

The Rocks of Terrick Colt around the corner.

As I round Kildown Cove and approach Enys Head the broad sweep of the next bay becomes visible right the way to Black Head in the distance.

I descended through gorse bush heath land with Shetland ponies, to the small and pebbly Carleon Cove at Poltesco. There were a few ruins there. I then climbed back out to emerge on a golf course. I followed the edge around to where the coast path went along behind Thorny Cliff, before joining a small lane down to Kennack Sands. The two crescents of the bay, split by jutting rocks, had nice waves and had a good few surfers in the water trying to catch the perfect one.

The sweep of the bay towards Kennack Sands as I round Enys Point.

Lichen on a gate post as I descend through Gorse fields of shetland ponies towards Poltesco.

Looking across Carleon Cove and Little Cove to Polbream Point as I near Poltresco.

Crossing the small river at Poltesco.

Looking back out to Enys Point as I begin the climb out of Poltesco over Polbream Point.

Kennack Sands ahead as I walk around a golf course.

The cafe and shop at Kennack Sands.

I walked wearily along behind the two bays and stopped for a sit down by a wall at the back of the second, before wearily climbing my way up to the cliff line again. The views back from Green Saddle were beautiful and all the way along to Carrick Luz. This rocky headland sheltered a small bay with a sandyish beach on its far side. A few people were wandering among the rocks down there. I carried on along to Downas Valley, which was a big descent to another beach looking like the tide had just covered it. Three surfers were climbing up the path towards me and asked me how many surfers there were back at Kennack Sands. I presume they'd been surfing in the small bay below me, before the tide had come in too far.

Looking back across Kennack Sands as I climb Eastern Cliff at its far end.

Looking ahead from Green Saddle to Carrick Luz Headland.

Looking back along Eastern Cliff from near Carrick Luz.

Looking back at Carrick Luz and its sheltered little bay behind as I pass.

Approaching Downas Cove.

In the valley bottom at Downas Cove before the climb out!

There was a fierce climb up out of the valley and rather boggy and slippery steps at the bottom of the climb. I was soon up though, even in my weary state, but over the next headland was yet another, though smaller, depression to cross. From then on the path round to Black Head with its small white box of a lookout building was fairly flat.

Looking back across Downas Cove to Carrick Luz after the steep climb out of Downas Valley.

A memorial to someone near Beagles Point.

Black Head, another major change of direction is close at hand!

Looking back past Pedn Boar all the way to Lizard for the last time before rounding the corner at Black Head.

And a new vista looking north east Past Chynhalls Point and Low Point beyond.

I rounded the corner and got yet another new vista. Close at hand was the rocky headland of Chynhalls Point, protecting a bay and a beach in front of it. Beyond that was Lowland Point and then in the distance, headlands that I presumed were around Falmouth, though they weren't really clear enough to make out much really. The weather had been pretty good all day really. The early gloom had lifted to give variable amounts of scudding grey clouds that sometimes gave the odd spot of rain and sunshine occasionally between. The shadows of the clouds made deep blue and turquoise patterns out to sea. Still no sign of any basking sharks, though I'd kept my eyes peeled all day as I had done all previous days! I think by now, although supposedly a good year for them, I am too far round to see them now?

As I approached Chynhalls Point the path descended lower and was quite awkwardly up and down around rocky areas. I eventually made it to the point, above the beach. A couple of surfers who'd been bobbing about in the waters, climbed up to the path from the beach as I arrived. I continued on my way. The approach into Coverack was pretty, between pretty cottages and lush gardens. The tiny harbour was pretty too.

I get nearer to Chynhalls Point with Porthbeer Cove sheltering in its lee.

The walk into Coverack from Chynhalls Point to Dolor Point and the Harbour around Perprean Cove.

Looking back at Chynhalls Point as I walk through the gardens of Coverack.

Coverack Bay as I round Dolor Point.

The tiny harbour in Coverack tucked in behind Dolor Point, with Low Point beyond.

Thatched cottages in Coverack.

Looking back at the harbour in Coverack as I round the bay to the carpark.

I walked around the bay to the car park. I was in no mood at all for cycling back to the car this evening! I had no choice though and set off up the hair pinned steep road out of the village. I was in my lowest gear and my legs were going nine to the dozen!!! I was determined to make it all the way though!!! Embarrassingly a jogger overtook me on the other side of the road! I joked with him about it and he politely said it was harder on a bike. Maybe I'm just not fit enough more like, and have far too many spare tires to carry, and I don't mean the cycle one stowed safely in the rucksack in case of punctures!! Even when the gradient lessened I didn't manage to catch the jogger up until a road junction a quarter of a mile or so further on. It seemed I just had nothing left to give when going up hills now! I'd worn myself out by this point, which is really quite pitiful!! I decided that I would have to have a rest day the next day, especially if the weather was nice enough to have a sit on a beach or something! I also needed a lie in I thought...the idea of rolling out of the tent at 11.30am sounded like heaven to me at this point!!

At the road junction I turned left towards Helston and then left again through Goonhilly Downs. Thankfully there were few hills now and I could go at a really decent speed in top gear, redressing the balance a bit for my poor showing up the hill out of Coverack!!

I passed an open Spar in Ruan Minor and went in to get a bottle of orange juice for sugar energy and a bottle of Diet Coke because I was totally parched. I drank most of both straight down, before continuing down to the harbour at Cadgwith. There was no way I could get up the first steep bit up from the harbour and I didn't even try. I got off and pushed the bike, but then cycled the rest of the way up to the car park when the gradient had eased a little.

I was absolutely shattered and couldn't remember being more weary in recent times! I drank the rest of the Diet Coke and set off for Helston. It was almost 6pm, no earlier than usual despite the short walk, with having to get the car fixed first this morning! I decided to drive into Helston town, having always driven around it on the ring road up until this point. The plan was to have some fish and chips if I could find a shop selling them there. I found one straight away, before even reaching the main shopping street and parked up outside. I had haddock, chips and mushy peas and then drove further along the main street before turning right at the end, to end up on an island that I knew from repeated journeys all week!

I arrived at the campsite just about in time for the one way to be in my favour. I had a shower and plugged in my battery charger in the men's showers as the charger didn't fit into the sockets in the barn. I probably wasn't allowed to do that as there was a plastic insert in the socket in the showers that I removed...shrug! I could only get told off!

I sat in the barn writing the diary and then went back to the tent to sleep before 9pm absolutely shattered. The clouds were clearing so I expected a cold night ahead!

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)