Day 38 - Polperro to Looe - 5 Miles

I got up slightly later than of late at Treveague Farm campsite, as I'd decided to move today. It was now getting a little bit far to travel to and from the day's walk. I'd seen a naturist campsite at Downderry on the internet before coming away and thought I'd give that a go for a giggle. I also thought it might be cheaper than other campsites around here... Treveague being 15 quid per night plus shower tokens!

I had a shower and bought some milk from the shop for my cereals. I packed up the tent roughly and not worrying about whether it dried out or not, as I hoped to be putting it up again asap. The sky was milky cloudy, but the forecast had said that rain would be heading in yet again today. I'd sort of planned last night to not have a total day off, but just do a short walk today after having moved the tent etc. Looking at the map it seemed like the stretch from Polperro to Looe would be an ideal length for what would be half a day no doubt by the time I'd done all my chores. I decided to wait and see what the weather looked like after I'd set the tent up the other end and then decide whether to or not.

Even though I'd got up later I had packed up the tent and was still ready to leave after breakfast by about 8am. In St Austell I called into Asda for some food supplies for the next couple of days and then carried on up the A390 towards Liskeard, deciding that going over the Fowey Car ferry again was just too much.. besides I'd be seeing some different and new bits of Cornwall on the way.

I got to the campsite in ok time and was asked if I knew it was naturist by a lad working there even though there was a sign warning potentially easily shockable folk that there may be NAKED people about! Lol. I assured him I knew and that I WAS a naturist? Am I? Possibly:) There were a few pitches available in a long narrow valley campsite of mainly caravans. I was told there were some new pitches up past the toilet block so went to investigate and picked one. The ground was really stoney which made putting the tent pegs in a bit difficult, but I was done before too long.

I set off again to drop the bike off in Looe and then carry on to park in Polperro. I got to the car park there on the outskirts of the village at about midday so all in all not too bad. Even better the forecast rain hadn't arrived. I was annoyed to find that I had to pay 6 quid for the car park as I wasn't sure I'd be back within 4 hours. I hadn't enough change so went to buy an ice cream from the kiosk there to get some. The woman serving was grumpy about it and I told her I'd only bought the ice cream for that.. to no avail and she pointed to a car park attendant hut .... tsk if only I'd known she could have shoved her ice cream.

I set off down towards the harbour.. getting quite annoyed by the ridiculous amounts of tourists meandering about and weaving about at snail’s pace in front of me. I didn't get very far anyway and went in to look around an exhibition of Polperro pastel artists. Most of the stuff wasn't that good, but I was quite taken by two tiny sunset beachy ones and as they were only £7.50 each decided to buy myself a souvenir of the trip this year... great art they ain't but at least they are real art... dunno where I am going to put em?? lol. I stopped off in the Ebenezer Gallery a little further down and then headed down to the harbour.

Amazingly as I set off up the cliffs the gathering clouds parted and I actually had hazy sun for most of the rest of the walk almost all the way to Looe apart from the last mile when it began to spit with rain and got heavier as I wandered about Looe looking for tourist information.

The path around from Polperro to Talland Bay was fairly flat once I got up there and it was pleasant enough, though nowhere near as dramatic as yesterday had been. Maybe I was just getting used to seeing beautiful scenery?

Polperro harbour with the tide further out than yesterday.

Looking across Polperro harbour from east to west side.

Looking back down Polperro harbour as I pass the harbour wall.

Chapel Cliff Rocks at the far side of the natural harbour entrance at Polperro.

On the cliff path again as I make my way to Downend Point from Polperro with a very distant Rame Head visible for the first time ahead.

Talland Bay and beach as I head back in from Downend Point.

Looking back across Talland Bay to Downend Point.

There was a bit of a climb up out of Talland, but nothing too serious. I'd also decided to wear my other walking trainers for the section today, as I would only be walking five miles and I thought they might not aggravate the blister I'd developed on my big toe yesterday. They certainly seemed to be comfortable enough or maybe it was just that I had a spring in my step because I knew I wasn't going too far and the sun was shining and there was no strong wind for a change into the bargain!

Hore Stone and other rocks ahead from somewhere above Aesop's Bed.

Looking back across Aesop's Bed and Talland Bay to Downend Point.

I rounded a last headland and Looe Island came into view. I decided to sit on some rocks at the headland for a few minutes and have the lunch that I'd bought along for the day, though I'd eaten a roll back at the campsite before setting off to save me having to carry too much. I had a prawn salad... wouldn't be able to keep that for another day and some chicken nibble things as I'd discovered yesterday I could eat them.. no artificial preservatives etc.

Portnadler Bay and St George's or Looe Island as I round the next headland.

I set off again and as I headed around the back of Portnadler Bay the first spots of rain began to fall, but only very lightly. Again it was fairly easy and quick walking with no serious ups and downs to contend with and the last bit to Hennafore Point being pretty flat and grassy at low level. While walking along today I decided I'd continue the easy day theme, as I was sure there would be a regular bus service from Looe back to Polperro. The drive over there had looked horrendously hilly and why kill myself if there really was a bus service to use! Especially if it was going to be raining by the time I finished my walk for the day!

Beaches and low cliffs as I head in from the headland around the back of Portnadler Bay.

The walk into Looe was pretty and i took the low level route right by the harborside, with the tide moving quite swiftly into the harbour. I walked past a sculpture of a seal and then along to the main bridge across the river, looking for bus stops or tourist information. I found neither and so crossed the bridge to East Looe and followed signs down the warren of side streets to try to find the Tourist Information office. To no avail. I missed it and walked a lot further than I'd hoped. It was also now raining quite heavily. I eventually found it after asking in the post office, which was only 50 yds from the tourist information.

Looe Beach and Harbour after walking around from Hannafore Beach.

Sculpture of seal as I walk along the low level harbour side path.

Fishing boat in Looe Harbour.

The lady in the Tourist Information Office told me the bus stop was down by the bridge.. typical.. a lot of walking about getting wet for nothing. The bus was supposd to leave at 4 mins past the hour and that was only 7 mins away, but it was only a few mins walk away so I set off. I arrived at the bus stop to find a lot of people waiting. The busses here are tiny so it was going to be a free for all to get on. When the bus did arrive, wierdly it pulled up right next to me, so I was the first to get on. I wasn't going to be all British and polite about it, so didn't look the gift horse in the mouth. I got back to Polperro car park at about 5pm and drove back to Looe to pick up the bike where I'd left it chained to a fence near a doctor's surgery not far from the bridge.

I drove back to the campsite and read my book for a while waiting for the 'bar' to open... a room in the house... thinking I might be able to use a power socket in there for the netbook. I asked Michael, the bloke who'd been doing the mowing when I arrived, and it turned out was staying in a caravan opposite in return for groundsman work, what time it opened. I asked about being able to use a socket in there and amazingly kindly, he ran an extension lead over from his van to my car so I could actually type the diary in the car rather than wait til 8pm when the bar opened. So all in all very friendly, even if the site does seem to have a bit of the Heath Robinson about it generally?

I'd also said hello to another couple on the site when I arrived, who it turned out were post people from Gloucester called Chris (her) and Dave (him). They set off in their car before me. I then proceeded to bump into them all day, first in the street in Polperro and then on the front by Hennafore Beach on the walk into Looe. They were very friendly and joking about following each other etc and I had a quick chat with them in Looe to tell them what I was up to down here.

All in all a friendly site it seems... though its far too chilly for me to get my bits out at the mo!! Tomorrow I am planning a longer day again, but my original loose itinerary is a bit none-existent now with the campsite move. I expect I can re-jig and be as far along as I'd planned in a few days time. I'm hoping to get from Looe to Port Wrinkle or Freathy tomorrow, which looks doable, although the forecast is for rain in the morning, clearing during the afternoon so it might not be too pleasant!?

Wait and see I guess.

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)