Day 45 - Mill Bay, East Portlemouth to Beesands - 12 miles

The forecast for today’s weather hadn't been good at all...but as the days had gone by the BBC weather had seemed to be lessening the severity of its rubbishness. We had been in two minds about doing walking at all if it was bad when we woke up. Upon awakening it was indeed raining...and had been most of the night again...we had a small lake developing on the groundsheet of the outside awning part but it had soaked through into the tent a bit...leaving clothes I had piled up there wet. Oh well:( Only stuff I had worn that needed washing anyway. If they hadn't soaked up the water it might have been me or my sleeping bag etc that had got wet anyway! I was in a foul mood...sick of rain...sick of wind...sick of cold...its June for goodness sakes!! Looking at my phone...rain was now only being forecast until 11am now...followed by black clouds then white clouds later in the afternoon. I suggested we maybe wait and see what might happen and start later...we had planned to walk from East Portlemouth around to Start Point. The guidebook said it was not too hard to begin with but getting more difficult...so the best weather should be when the walking was more difficult. I didn't want to not walk at all even though I was really achey and stiff from the long day before! But I also wanted to enjoy it and getting cold and wet in strong winds all day isn't my idea of fun! Theres also no point walking in lovely scenery if you can't see any of it for low cloud fog and drizzle or horizontal rain. You certainly couldn't see much from the campsite this morning.

We decided to go down to Blackpool Sands cafe for breakfast while we waited to see what might happen. Steve had a full english while I plumped for a veggie option with vegan sausages...possibly one if the worst things I've ever eaten and there were three of them too! The rest was fine. I ate everything anyway for energy. The rain kept coming down...grey veils drifting across the beach. It did eventually seem to brighten sky wise and instead of being dark and dismal….banks of distinct black cloud could be discerned which I took to mean it was breaking up slightly...so we decided to set off in the car to East Portlemouth on the near side of Kingsbridge Estuary from Salcombe where we had finished yesterday. We still weren't certain if we would be walking...just seeing whether it was any brighter over there to make the decision before it got too late into the day to set off.

As we made our way over there through the labyrinth of deeply nestled narrow lanes using the sat nav...it did indeed stop raining for a while and the skies did indeed brighten a shade of grey...maybe. Upon arrival we were going to park at the church initially as we passed but glad we didn't as the church is miles up from the estuary and we would have had loads extra to walk...we carried on down and down and then turned left at the bottom following signs for Mill Bay along a tiny lane along the side of the estuary. This eventually ended in a sand and large puddled track… I sent Steve ahead on foot thinking we might get stuck….but the National Trust car park was just beyond in fact. Being a member that meant it was at least free...a bit of good news for a change...8.50 saved!

As it was still not raining...difficult to tell under the tree cover of the car park really...we decided to set off on the proposed walk...keeping fingers crossed that the BBC weather was right and it would generally get at least a bit brighter through the day. It was about 10.30am as we set off up a track through trees beside Mill Bay Beach and then above other sandy beaches along this side of Kingsbridge Estuary. There were frequent views through the trees across to Salcombe and South Beach where we had stopped walking yesterday and caught the tractor ferry into Salcombe itself.

The beautiful sands of Mill Bay accross from Salcombe as we set off from the car park.

Looking up the Salcombe estuary as we round the headland at the side of Mill Bay.

Looking across the Salcombe estuary from near Biddlehead Point to South Sands beach whee we caught the tractor ferry from the day before

The path goes through nice woodland around Biddlehead Point and beyond.

Looking over the beach of Sunny Cove cross the estuary to Salcombe.

Looking across the Salcombe estuary at yesterdays walk from the rocks of Sharp Tor and Bolt Head and Mew Stone just poking out from behind them

Bolt Head and Sharp Tor as we reach the end of the Salcombe Estuary from Rickham Common

The way ahead along the cliffs of Portlemouth Down.

Looking back at Bolt Head and Sharp Tor from Portlemouth Down.

The beaches of Rickham Sand and Seacombe.

Looking up at Gara Rock and a small Lookout from a hotel on the cliff top as we head around the back of Rickham Sand.

Looking back at Bolt Head and Sharp Tor from the far side of Seacombe beach.

The way ahead to Gammon Point from below Deckler's Cliff.

The sun comes out transforming the scene as we approach Venerick's Cove.

Looking back at the now distant Bolt Head and Sharp Tor from beyond Venerick's Cove before heading out towards Gammon Head.

Looking back at todays walk along the cliffs as we head out to Gammon Head.

Gammon Head.

Maceley Cove tucked in behind Gammon Head beneath our feet.

Looking down into Maceley Cove with Gammoon Head behind.

Looking back across Maceley Cove at Gammon Head.

Looking back at Gammon Head, Maceley Cove, Elender Cove and in the far distance Bolt Head.

The rocks of Prawle Point with the coast guard look out at its summit.

Looking back all the way past Gammon Head to Salcombe Estuary and Bolt head from near the end of Prawle Point.

The rocks of Prawle Point.

Approaching the Coast Guard look out on Prawle Point.

Looking down at one of the many narrow inlets in the wavecut platform after Prawle Point.

A new vista opens up as we round Prawl Point. All the way to Pear Tree Point, just before Start Point. Still a very long way to go today!

Looking back at Prawle Point from our truge along flat fields on the edge of the wavecut platform.

Still a long way to go to Pear Tree Point and we have to go round that and Start Point beyond and all the way around to Beesands on Start Bay!

The cliffs of The Narrows and Pear Tree Point as we approach Harris's Beach.

Harris's Beach before we head along the Narrows headlands heading for Pear Tree Point.

Looking back at the now distant Prawle Point as we walk along the low cliffs of The Narrows heading for Pear Tree Point.

Pear Tree Point ever nearer as we head along The Narrows.

And Prawle Point ever more distant.

Weird pinnacles of soil left when all the rest of the topsoil and scree on top of the wavecut platform has been eroded away.

Pear Tree Point at last at hand beyond Pear Tree Cove.

Looking back all the way to Prawle Point from beyond Pear Tree Cove.

Around Pear Tree Point, the jagged spine of Start Point with its lighthouse finally comes into view.

Approaching the jagged spine of Start Point at last.

Cutting over the spine of Start Point and the next major vista of the walk Start Bay opens up.

Eerily quiet water behind Start Point with hardly a sound compared to rashing waves before.

This wind blasted tree as we descend gradually to Hall Sands tells a different tale.

Looking back at Start Point as we near Hall Sands.

Almost at Hall Sands.

The ruins at Hall Sands also tell a tale of it not always being so quiet and calm here.

Looking back at Hall Sands and Start Point from the beach

The beach at Beesands finally not too far away - a very long day today.

Beneath more arches of windblasted trees and shrubs.

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)