Day19 - Porth Joke to St Agnes Head - 12 Miles

The forecast heavy rain for Sunday began at 4.15am. My only hope as I drifted back to sleep, was that it would do its worst and blow over before I was ready to set off in the morning!! Hey ho!

The pattering on the tent did seem to ease up a bit around 7am and, as I needed the loo, I got up and went for a shower. The rain had returned with a vengeance while I was in there and so I decided to sit in the car for a while to write up the diary that I'd not managed to do the previous evening because of chinwagging with Andy. I switched Cornwall Pirate Radio on while I wrote, to listen for the weather. They seemed to be saying that the heavy rain would ease off by about lunchtime, to be replaced by heavy showers later on in the afternoon. This news gladdened my heart a little. I decided to wait it out for a couple of hours to see if things improved, rather than pack up in the rain. I'd only planned to walk to Perranporth on the first day of my loose itinerary anyway, which should have left me plenty of time leeway, especially as I'd done the Newquay to Porth Joke section already after arriving yesterday.

It stopped raining finally at about 10am and I dismantled the wet tent and said goodbye to Andy, who drove off for the day in his blue van. I went to ask the campsite owner where he wanted me to park the car and he suggested a spot by some old grain silos, so I parked up, handed in the keys and set off, waving goodbye to the only slight luxury I'd have on this holiday – a dry car!

By now it was about 10.30am and I headed down the small valley behind the farm out to Porth Joke again (locally known as Polly Joke). This time when I got there, instead of heading clockwise, I set off the correct way, heading out onto Kelsey Head, with the small rock island called The Chick at its end. The sea was rough again, whipped up by a very strong wind, which I encountered for the first time proper, while rounding the end of this first headland. It was to be an experience repeated many times throughout the day and indeed the first few days of this walking holiday!! On the exposed sides of headlands the gusts were fierce – blowing me over twice!! I don't think I've ever walked in SUCH wind before!!

Looking on the bright side, the rain clouds of earlier continued to break up. A grey blanket gradually replaced by predominantly blue skies, though looking inland, it seemed to remain grey and overcast. I was incredibly lucky it seemed!

The walk out to Kelsey Head, the tide much further in this morning than it had been on my walk round to Newquay the afternoon before.

Looking across the mouth of Porth Joke across to Pentire Point West then Pentire Point East with its rocky island of The Goose at its end, and beyond Towan Head.

As I round Kelsey Head Penhale Point and Carter's or Gull Rocks appear at the far end of the next bay of Holywell Bay.

A walk around the headland lead me to the exposed sands of Holywell Beach, with huge dunes at its back. I walked down onto the sands and along the front of the dunes to the small river outlet at their far end. I followed the river around behind the dunes to a small wooden footbridge across it. As it was sheltered here I sat for a while on a grassy bank by the stream, patches of sunlight now regularly whipping across the landscape. I ate some of the chocolate cake I'd bought along with me for energy and a packet of low fat crisps, finished off with a few sweets that I'd bought the night before to get change for the bus in Newquay.

I end up above the far end of Holywell Beach as the clouds begin to disperse into predominantly blue skies and the sun starts shining.

Looking out at Carter's or Gull Rocks as I walk along Holywell Beach.

Rested, I set off again, climbing up a few steps from the beach and entering the MOD owned land of Penhale Point. The path angled up the headland quite gently, and I was sheltered from the wind again, until of course, I reached the very end of the headland. There were lots of masts at the top and circles of aerial hoops, that were making a right racket as they were buffeted fiercely by the gusty wind.

The sun makes the cowslips and sea pinks zing and the sea turns turquoise as I walk out to Penhale Point sheltered from the wind.

Looking back at Holywell Beach as I walk out to Penhale Point.

The MOD aerial hoops being buffetted fiercely by the gusting winds at the end of Penhale Point, with Kelsey Head beyond.

I headed inland again slightly, around Hoblyn's Cove, the MOD buildings off to my left, surrounded by wire fence with razor wire at the top. The cliffs around here were dramatic and impressive. I was further squeezed through the tightly fenced off path, they certainly don't want you wandering anywhere you shouldn't through here! At least I was sheltered from the strongest winds again for a while as I headed out to Ligger Point, with a solitary, lonely house standing on it (presumably MOD property).

Looking ahead across Hoblyn's Cove to Ligger Point with its lone house/MOD property.

Looking back to Penhale Point and Carter's Rocksjust before making my way out to the end of Ligger Point.

As I rounded the point the wind battered me again, but I was rewarded with the long view of Perran Beach, stretching ahead for the next couple of miles or so, right down to Perran Porth itself. The gusting wind wasn't pleasant as I headed along the cliffs to the dunes at the back of the beach. From here I descended to the sands themselves. The tide was quite well in and as I walked along the beach it was hard work. It was a constant battle against the sandblasting headwind and the sand underfoot was quite soft too, or maybe it was the combined weight of me and the heavy rucksack making me sink into it more than I would have normally??

The sands and crashing windswept waves of Perran Beach stretch ahead all the way to Perran Porth as I round Ligger Point.

About half way along the beach there were quite a few windsurfers out in force, whipping through the water at an incredible speed and jumping off the tops of the roaring waves.

At last I made it to the Life Guard huts and sat near them for a while in the sun and sheltered from the wind a bit. Annoyingly the tide was still too far in for me to make it around the base of the cliffs of Cotty's Point, and so, when I'd rested for a while I climbed up the zig zag ramp from the beach and then up over the headlands to descend on the other side down to Perran Porth beach itself. I made my way across the sands to the river and crossed over the bridge to its other side. I then decided to go for my first drink of the walk in the hotel by Chapel Rock at the far side of the beach. I asked if they were still doing bar food, but they'd stopped, so I took my pint out to the sun terrace overlooking the beach and then, when I'd finished, crossed the road to a café, where I had a prawn and marie rose sandwich with a can of diet coke. When I paid I bought another can of coke for the road and set off again, as I'd decided I could carry on and get a bit further ahead of my loose itinerary. I should take advantage of the bright weather at least!!

The windsurfers half way along Perran Beach.

Looking back along Perran Beach to Ligger Point and Penhale Point with Carter's Rocks beyond, as I climb up over Cotty's Point.

Perranporth finally comes into view properly as I descend the cliffs of Cotty's Point back down to the beach.

Chapel Rock and Droskyn Point as I sit and have my pint in the beer garden of the pub looking out across Perran Beach.

I set off, uphill out of the bay, though again the climb was gradual. I took the small lane up out of the bay first and then out past the youth hostel. The cliffs here were lofty and somewhat spoiled by numerous mineworkings and old spoil tips, but beyond Cligga Head, while walking around the back of Hanover Cove it was wonderfully dramatic and the cliffs were crumbling away in sheer drops etc. I could even see copper staining parts of them bluey green and I passed an old mineshaft covered with a cone of metal mesh. Many of the old mineshafts are being recapped by metal, as previously they'd been capped with wood and as this rots through time it was a rather dangerous landscape to be walking in!

Looking back along Perran Beach as I set off from PerranPorth from above Chapel Rock. The beach below Cotty's Point is now exposed and passable.

The small headland of Shag Rock as I walk further out towards Cligga Head and look back at Perran Beach. Carter's Rocks are still visible in the distance.

I walk through mine workings at Cligga Head.

The way ahead as far as St.Agnes Head opens up as I round Cligga Head.

Spectacular rocks and cliffs behind Hanover Cove.

The colours of the cliffs are varied and capped mine shafts are a plenty!

More spectacular cliffs, rocks and stacks, and just visible from behind the red cliff on the left is Green Island.

Eventually I arrived at the steep descent of Trevellas Coombe, with all its abandoned mine workings and ruins further up the valley. I sat for a while, on the rocks on the beach and decided while looking at the map to carry on yet further to a campsite marked on the map after I'd rounded St Agnes Head. The tide was out enough now for me to scramble over the rocks, around to Trevaunance Cove. This was great news, as the headland between Trevellas Coombe and Trevaunance Cove is a substantial obstacle to have to climb over at high tides!

Trevaunance Cove appears ahead before a ferocious descent down into Trevellas Coombe.

The abandoned mine workings of Trevellas Coombe as I descend into the valley.

Looking back at the steep descent into Trevellas Coombe and my scramble across the rocky beach to get to Trevaunace Cove.

I bought a tuna and sweetcorn sandwich and two bottles of diet coke, and sat eating them on a bench overlooking the beach and surfers. I then set off along a small service lane that subsequently turned into a path and then zig zagged quite steeply up around the headlands. This stretch of the path wasn't that exciting. The main point of interest being two small rocks out to sea – Bawden Rocks or Man and his Man.

Looking back at the spectacular cliff scenery between Cligga Head and Trevaunance Cove as I leave the last few houses of the village behind.

And again after having scaled to the heights of the cliffs again. The whole day's walk beyond Perran Beach, Holywell Bay and Carter's Rocks is visible in the distant haze.

I at last rounded the headland of St Agnes Head, getting severely battered by the wind again. I climbed up around the small white square look out building and headed for cars I could see parked in the car park. From here I tried to find a path marked on the map, angling away from the cliffs to join the lane coming down to the car park further inland, to avoid having to walk further as the lane itself was quite dog legged. There was no waymark and I found it more by luck than judgement. At the lane I turned right and then right again, by this point being quite weary and desperately wanting to get to the campsite marked on the map for a good night's sleep!

I came to a Camping and Caravanning Club site on the left and was somewhat dismayed to see two signs saying "No Tents"! I went to ask at Reception and thank goodness the lady there pointed me to another campsite 100 yds or so down the lane. Beacon Cottage Touring Park does take tents, despite it not being mentioned on the sign at the end of their drive.

There was no one in reception when I arrived at a few minutes before 7pm, despite the sign saying that it should be manned until 7pm. I rang the mobile number posted on the door, finding it difficult to hear in the howling winds. I was told to pitch in a sheltered paddock which was quite cozy actually.. a high stone wall around a small area of grass, small wind blasted misshapen trees providing a canopy over much of the area. Almost as soon as I'd erected the tent it started to rain and continued for the rest of the night. Talk about lucky!!! I was going to have a shower, but now it was raining I couldn't be bothered and went straight to bed, being too tired to even write much of the diary.

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)