Day 15 - Port Isaac to Polzeath - 8 Miles

No in depth diary from the holiday for this day. I was exceedingly weary on this day. The walk down to Port Isaac itself was pretty and I took the back streets and alleyways down to the harbour itself and then climbed the far headland up and out of the village. The walk around the ensuing headlands was pretty flat to undulating. The tide was in so the blue sea was crashing or lapping up against the low cliffs all the way. Just before Port Quin the path got ridiculously up and down if you ask me.... ie it was unnecessarily meandering up and down the cliffs! I sat by the harbour at Port Quin for a while before setting off again.

The view out across Port Gaverne's inlet, from near the front of The Anchorage Guest House. Tintagel's Castle Island clearly visible on the horizon.

The pretty walk through...

...alleyways and lanes down to...

......the 'main street' of old Port Isaac running around the harbour.

Looking back at the nestling Port Isaac from a bench after the initial climb up to the headlands.

The next inlet of Pine Haven, with Varley Head beyond, after walking around Lobber Point from Port Isaac.

Looking back from Varley Head, the last few houses of Port Isaac just poking from behind Lobber Point. ( Still a showery day!)

Blue seas with white spray at the end of Varley Head, Rumps Point and the small rocky island of The Moules visible in the distance.

The path ahead over the low Reedy Cliff and then the ridiculously up and down section out to Kellan Head after walking in from Scarnor Point.

Kellan Head from Reedy Cliff.

The mouth of Port Quin natural harbour as I walk in from Kellan Head.

The tiny hamlet of Port Quin at the head of its protected inlet.

Looking back at Doyden Point before Trevan Point.

I passed a collapsed cave after a while and carried on around the headlands to Pentire Point. Rounding the end of that I got a good view across the Camel Estuary to Stepper Point and then it was a seemingly endless walk along gradually descending cliffs to the large beach at Polzeath. I was desperate to get to the campsite that I could see above the beach and set up for the night. It looked busy but still not quite full by the looks of it. When I got to the beach at the row of houses at New Polzeath I took to the sands and walked straight across to the campsite.

The rocky bay, with no sands exposed at such high tides, near Portreath, after walking in from Trevan Point.

The collapsed cave just before I begin the walk out to Carnweather Point.

Rumps Point and The Moules from Com Head.

Looking back at the day's walk.

Looking back at Rumps Point and behind The Moules as I make my way along to Pentire Point.

Looking back at Rumps Point from Pentire Point.

Polzeath ahead, at the end of the Camel Estuary as I round Pentire Point.

On the final, weary approach to Polzeath, another small sandy bay to go around first.

There was no one in reception but another couple had just arrived and had rung the number on the door so we waited together for a bloke to turn up. I don't know why I'd bothered! They tried charging me 32 quid for my tiny 2 man tent for the night!! Basically they only do two day bookings in high season and charge per tent not per person.. the money grabbing bastards. I couldn't believe what a naff policy it was! I was despondent and chuntered to him how scandalous it was that I could stay in a b and b for less! I wandered into the 'centre' and went for some food.. I was soo tired I didn't feel like carrying on and so went to have some scampi and chips.. while in there a bloke got talking to me and told me to try the Valley Caravan Park. I walked along there and the lady in reception was really friendly and was only going to charge me £8.50 for the night.

I went to set up, just as another large rucksack laden obviously coast path walker arrived.. he set up next to me and was going the other way, just doing bits from where he felt like it. He was doing quite a pace though. I went for a shower which I had to get 20p tokens for from the launderette, and then went for a wander down to the beach again. I saw the middle aged couple, who were just arriving to get a cup of coffee. They'd decided to carry on round to Padstow that afternoon and stay there so I expected to not see them again.

I wandered down the beach and paddled through the seas edge heading across towards New Polzeath. When I got to the far end I walked up to the row of houses and went into the Atlantic Bar for a drink or two. I wished I'd bought the diary along or something to read. I was actually quite morbid and feeling very lonely for the first time on the walk and it would have given me something to do while sitting there people watching. I had three pints and some food (thai tuna fishcakes) before wandering back via the local shop to buy snacks and shower gel which had all but run out etc and went back to bed rather than stay up and get even more morbid!

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 47 - Blackpool Sands to Dartmouth - 5 miles

Day 32 - St Anthony Head to Carne Beach – 8 miles

Travel down for Part Four and Day 18 - Porth Joke to Newquay - 3 miles