Day 44 - Bantham on the River Avon Estuary to Salcombe - 12 miles

I had slept fine in the tent until about 1am as there was no rain and less wind threatening to turn the tent inside out! But when I woke up in the early hours I felt on the edge of cold, it being a clear cloudless night, and my air bed would keep sliding down the tent a bit! Consequently I woke up frequently for the rest of the night. My alarm on my phone went off at 6 am...having forgotten to switch it off. I tried to sleep a bit longer especially as the sun was now up and would warm the tent slightly. I gave up after a while and decided to go and get showered. I collected a powerpack l’d had on charge overnight in the barn and left my phone to charge while I showered. After collecting that I went back to the tent and had a breakfast of cheese and pickle bread with hummus washed down with a pint of whole milk that we had bought in Tesco in Kingsbridge on the drive home yesterday.

It was nice and sunny with blue skies and few clouds today so I sat outside eating it and had even donned shorts for the day’s walk. We set off later than yesterday at about 8am...and arrived at Bantham with its terraced row of thatched cottages at about 8.30am. There was a lady manning the hut for the beach carpark and the charge was 6 quid for the day...grrr. we drove the 150 yards or so from the hut to the car park and parked up the beach end. It had clouded over considerably on the drive over and indeed looked as if it could even rain and there was a cold wind blowing down there. I decided to change out of shorts and back into muddy jogging bottoms from yesterday...and definitely put a jumper on and packed the waterproof coat!

We set off down a track from the end of the car park towards the lifeguard station. And then cut through a kissing gate into a field of bullocks. I put my hand on a revolting lump of phlegm that someone had spat on the gate...ewww thanks for that...felt revolting until I could sanitise my hands later in a toilet! We set off around the edge of the cattle filled field taking pictures out across the River Avon estuary to Burgh island and Bigbury on Sea and headed up to the top of the first headland...the climb wasn’t too bad but my legs were achey from overwork yesterday. I had my doubts looking out at Bolt Tail headland ahead in the distance, if I could make it all the way to Salcombe, as Bolt Tail was only a third of the distance, and that even looked a long way away!

Looking across the River Avon estuary from Bantham towards Burgh Island and Bigbury on Sea.

Looking across Avon Estuary to Bigbury on Sea and Burgh Island before climb up through cattle filled field

Looking back after the climb up the first headland from Bantham car park. Burgh Island and beyond it the start of yesterday's walk... the Erme Estuary

It was a pleasant walk along low, fairly flat cliffs along the edge of Thurleston golf course. There were plenty of rocky outcroppings to look at and waves crashing against them all the way. The natural arch out in Milton Sands Bay came into view and was a point of reference all the way along this stretch. After Warren Point we walked behind two beaches of Milton Sands and crossed the mainly reed bed choked estuary of South Milton Ley Nature Reserve on a long wooden bridge.

Looking ahead from the low cliffs on the edge of Thurleston golf course. Hope Cove and the next major headland of Bolt Tail visible.

Steve on a bench as we head along the low cliff edges on Thurleston Golf Course, with Bolt Tail beyond

Looking back at Burgh Island from cliff edges on Thurleston Golf Course

Looking back over Broad Sand towards Burgh Island as we head along the cliff edge of Thurlestone golf course.

The view ahead over Yarmouth Sand to Hope Cove and Bolt Tail beyond.

Looking back along Yarmouth Sands from half way along the path above the back of the beach

The far end of Yarmouth Sand ahead with the headland of The Delvers and Bolt Tail in the distance

Looking back along the length of Yarmouth Sand as we approach The Delvers at its far end

The natural arch out in Milton Sands Bay as we head towards South Milton Ley Nature Reserve

The natural arch from the beach at Leas Foot

Steve crossing the long wooden bridge across the reed choked estuary of South Milton Ley Nature Reserve.

Looking out to sea across Thurlestone Sands to the natural arch as we cross the long wooden bridge across South Milton Ley Nature Reserve.

Not long afterwards we stopped in the Beach House Cafe that was just opening. I had a diet coke and Steve had a coffee and a bacon sandwich. I was quite a cool place and rapidly filling up with middle aged surfer types.

We set off again before getting too comfortable! We followed the lane from Milton Sands car park...behind newish houses and a thatched cottage and then took a lane off to the right...turning left through a gate around a field edge and next to houses up and over the next headland of Great Ledge. Cresting this afforded nice views of the small hamlets of Outer and Inner Hope and Hope Cove.

Looking out from the beginning of Great Ledge after leaving South Milton Sands behind... Bolt Tail now closer at hand

Rocks and wavecut platform, with Bolt Tail beyond, as we climb to the summit of Great Ledge

Steve on the path along Great Ledge, Inner and Outer Hope tucked away behind the summit, with Bolt Tail beyond

Hope Cove comes into view with Bolt Tail beyond as we crest the rise of Great Ledge

Final descent to Inner and Outer Hope from Great Ledge

Looking out across Hope Cove to Bolt Tail

Mouthwell beach as we make final descent to Outer Hope

We sat on a bench behind the beach for a while looking at the rocks and the waves. I ate a pork pie as I was feeling a bit peckish. Steve bought a postcard and we set off again...walking along the beach by the little harbour of Inner Hope as the tide was out. We climbed steep steps at the top of the lifeboat ramp on the right. A man had been clearing them with a strimmer. The path was then a fairly gentle climb initially through trees and then onto open sheep fields of Bolt Tail. There were fabulous views back at all of today’s walk, but also all of yesterdays!

Looking out across Mouthwell Beach at Outer Hope all the way back to Burgh Island in the distance

Boats high and dry on the harbour beach of Inner Hope

Looking out at the headland of Bolt Tail as we walk across the Harbour Beach of Inner Hope at low tide

Fishing boat high and dry on harbour beach of Inner Hope at low tide

Rocks at the far side of Inner Hope beach before making our way up the steps to join the cliff path out to Bolt Tail

View back across the harbour beach of Inner Hope towards Outer Hope, Burgh Island and Bigbury on Sea visible in the distance

Glimpses back down to Hope Cove through the trees along the cliff path out to Bolt Tail

View back along the coast to the natural arch by South Milton Sands and Thurlestone, just before emerging onto the open headland of Bolt Tail

Looking back at Outer Hope and the coast we'd walked along earlier on today, from the open grassy headland of Bolt Tail

Steve on the furthest headland point of Bolt Tail with the whole of our two day walk on this trip so far laid out behind him.

We headed back eastwards from the point. A very tall headland cliff Bolberry Down came into view. The climb looked fairly gradual..but the headland was as tall as any yesterday and I knew there were a couple of ups and downs to do along this stretch from a look at the map yesterday evening. Yuck...hope my already tired knees could cope! The views off to the right were minimal to start with... just blue sea... the cliffs being too sheer to see rocks at the bottom of them with their audible crashing waves. As we climbed up to the summit of Bolberry Down though the path took to the crumbling cliff edges allowing better views down to the rocks and crashing waves far below.

Few views down to the crashing waves as we turn eastwards from Bolt Tail Point and head in the direction of Bolberry Down

A glimpse down at Redrot Cove as the path skirts crumbling cliff edges

The gentle climb to the summit of Bolberry Down ahead and beyond Ham Stone and the headlands beyond Soar Mill Cove

A last look back at Hope Cove, Burgh Island and all the way back to the Erme Estuary the start of this weeks walk before it is lost for good behind the summit of Bolberry Down

Small beach and Ham Stone in the far distance as we continue to gently climb up to the summit of Bolberry Down

Looking back Westwards towards Bolt Tail as we climb Bolberry Down

Steve with the way ahead with the inlet of Soar Mill Cove visible and Ham Stone out to sea

From the summit of Bolberry Down...the path was fairly high and flat for a good stretch and quite a distance was gravel path for wheelchair access even. After passing the car park off to the left the path began to fairly gradually descend along a ridge….the sea on our right and a valley with lovely rocky outcroppings deepening off to our right. The final descent to Soar Mill Cove was quite steep and zig zagged down to the back of the small and dramatically rocky beach. The climb back out was ferocious looking and I wasn't looking forward to it at all.

Above Ralph's Hole looking along Cathole Cliff towards Soar Mill Cove inlet

Steve on a rock with the way we have come along the Bolberry Down cliffs behind

The final steeper descent to Soar Mill Cove begins at the end of Cathole Cliff, with Ham Stone closer at hand now out to sea

Looking back along the cliffs in the direction of Bolt Tail from the end of Cathole Cliff before the steep zig zag descent down to Soar Mill Cove

The climb around the cliffs beyond Soar Mill Cove from half way down the descent of Cathole Cliff with Ham Stone now closer at hand.

Steve ahead, walking behind Soar Mill Cove, after the steep zig-zag descent from Cathole Cliff.

The beach at Soar Mill Cove with Ham Stone out to sea.

In reality the first part of it wasn't as bad as it had looked and as we went around the first rocky stretch there was plenty of opportunity to stop regularly to let a bus load of German walkers going the other way past. The final climb up to a spine of broken rock formations that had been visible for a long while was tough but I managed it with regular stops.

Looking back across Soar Mill Cove to Cathole Cliffs and way beyond as we begin the climb up out of the cove.

Steve as we climb the steep section after Soar Mill Cove.

The path beyond was relatively flat and Bolt Head, the last headland of this section came into view at last. We sat on a bench for a while for more refreshments saying hello to an older German lady as she passed by going in our direction. She had a good pace with her walking poles and we struggled to keep her in our sights by the time we set off to follow her.

The cliffs leading up to Bolt Head become visible after cresting the rise of The Warren

Looking out to sea from the high and flattish cliff tops of The Warren

We passed through a field of highland cattle and belted galloways before heading out onto Bolt Head. Again it was fairly flat with good views back along the cliffs in the direction of Bolt Tail. At the far side of the headland the path descended through dramatic rock outcroppings and Steve and I sat again on a bench for a few minutes. The German lady headed down afterwards and we chatted for a while when she got to us...she had started in Bantham like us that morning and was heading for Salcombe too and has done much of the path herself but not all of it.

She set off again and we never caught up with her again! The next part of the path was beautiful. Around the back of Starehole Bay to Sharp Tor with its dramatic rock pinnacles and at last...views along Kingsbridge Estuary to the end of the day at Salcombe..and of course the following day’s route from Salcombe out along cliffs to Start Point.

Looking out over Off Cove to the first headland of Bolt Head.

Looking back along the cliffs of The Warren as we start heading out onto Bolt Head.

Rocks and sea from our walk out onto Bolt Head.

Steve heads down a pretty rocky valley on the far side of Bolt Head.

The cliff path at the far side of Bolt Head, and the headlands of tomorrow's walk, beyond the Salcombe estuary come into view.

Steve sitting on a bench at the far side of Bolt Head with the path around the back of Starehole Bay visible ahead.

Starehole Bay and a boat circling back into Salcombe estuary.

Looking East from the back of Starehole Bay with Prawl Point on tomorrow's walk in the distance.

Steve heads up the path at the far side of Starehole Bay up to the pretty pinnacle rocks of Sharp Tor

Looking back across Starehole Bay to the far side of Bolt Head from the beginning of the gradual climb up to Sharp Tor.

Steve on the final steeper climb up to the pinnacle rocks of Sharp Tor.

After Sharp Tor the path into Salcombe was fairly flat and low along the edge of the estuary through trees and bushes. It eventually joined a road that descended around the back of South Sands. We saw there was a ferry that left from the beach to the town further along the estuary and so we decided to catch it rather than trudge all the way along the roads for the final mile or so. Besides I love a boat trip...any excuse to have one! We had just missed a ferry and so would have a half hour wait for the next one..so we had a drink and I had a honeycomb ice cream too sitting on the benches of a cafe on a slipway.

Looking back at the pinnacle rocks of Sharp Tor from the far side.

Looking back across Starehole Bay to Bolt Head from Sharp Tor before heading inland along the Salcombe Estuary.

Steve and the way ahead along the Estuary to Salcombe.

Looking out over South Sands bay in the Salcombe estuary as we round Splatcove Point.

When we saw the ferry heading back we went and got on the tractor like landing stage that drives people out to deep enough water to allow them to get on the small boat. An interesting and effective idea that I’d not seen before. Ideal for shallow beach situations!

The boat ride was lovely and I didn't feel the least bit guilty about slightly cheating on the walk! We were dropped off and headed to the first pub...the Kings Arms by the jetty for a cold pint. My feet were very achey by now and sore in places...but no pains other than general fatigue and over worked legs...so doing really well so far!! Especially after the strenuousness of day one with all its climbs and descents!

The ferry pulls into the tractor jetty at South Sands in Salcombe.

View back from the ferry as we pull away from South Sands tractor jetty.

Passing boats tied up in the estuary as we head to Salcombe town on the ferry.

Houses of Salcombe from the ferry as we head up the estuary to the harbour.

When I rang the taxi number that I'd found on the internet for this stretch I got an answer machine saying that they were not able to help due to car breakdown. I asked in the pub and they gave me a number which I rang with success, though for some reason we had to go and wait for him at Coleman's butchers rather than where we were. We found it easily enough and he arrived on time. The trip back to Bantham car park cost 19 quid something so no worse than yesterdays...we had to walk from the entrance all the way to the car at the far end though...should have thought about that this morning!! We got back to the car and drove home. It was about 4:30pm. A long day walking and it had started to rain on the drive home so I ate left over bread for tea with camembert and wrote up the diary listening to music while Steve snoozed. Rain forecast for tomorrow so not sure whether we will walk or not...see how bad it is in the morning I guess?

Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)