Day 28 - Mullion Cove to Cadgwith – 10 miles
I woke up weary and someone was hammering tent pegs in on the site at about 6am – Good grief… what do people expect when they camp in ridiculously posh and over sized tents and the weather actually doesn't behave itself. It was still raining and drizzling and fog meant that you couldn't see beyond the campsite boundaries. I sat in the car listening for the weather forecast. They all seemed to be saying that the rain would be clearing from Cornwall during the morning, showers becoming less frequent in the afternoon and maybe a glimpse of the sun later on??
If this was true then we'd been very lucky – Rory would get to walk after all, not go to the Eden Project which had been our back up plan for a horrible day when we'd discussed it last night.
I got showered and as I sat there the fog began to lift slightly, which gave me hope that the forecast might be correct. I decided as Rory wasn't up still, that I would go and get the car in to be fixed as they hadn't rung me to let me know of any problem getting the part in. So, I drove into Helston and arrived at ATS to find out that they couldn't locate a cable. Hmmm… strangely the bloke decided to actually look under the car this time and lifted it up on the car lift! He rang a supplier and miraculously managed to locate one there and then and said it would now be in later on that day. That would interfer with my walking day with Rory and so I said I would drop it in to be done while I waited the next morning!
I rang Rory and left a message on his answer phone to tell him what I had done and headed to Tesco's to stock up on snacks etc. I asked Rory to come and join me there to save me having to go back to the campsite. He rang back to say he'd be on his way. While I waited I looked at the map and decided we could extend our planned walk from Mullion Cove round to Lizard Point a bit further round to Cadgwith, especially as the cloud seemed to be higher and it had stopped drizzling somewhat!
So when Rory turned up at Tesco's he nipped in to buy some sandwiches for the day and we set off to deposit a car first at Cadgwith car park. We left his there as the car park was slightly sloping and I had no handbrake still of course. We then drove on to Mullion Cove where I parked up my car and walked down to join the coast path at the harbour.
My legs were really tired this morning and I hoped they'd loosen up a bit as I went. It was more than pleasant to have company for the day:)
As we climbed up the headland overlooking Mullion Island the clouds came down again and we lost all but the nearest views. The crashing white waves below made eerie appearances below as we rounded the fog shrouded cliff edges. We lost views all the way until we reached Gew Graze, which was a shame as I am sure they would have been spectacular. As we descended into the narrow valley with horned cattle at its bottom we came through the low cloud base and got a slight view out to sea at last, albeit not a distant one!
Coast Path sign with snail at Mullion Cove.
As we start to climb the cliffs at Mullion Cove.. the sea is quite rough today.
Looking back at Mullion Cove Harbour as we climb up into the low cloud base!
Mullion Island still just visible out to sea slightly.
More cloud and cliffs and crashing waves.
Cloudy cliffs and crashing Waves near Mullion Cove.
Thick cloud makes it almost impossible to see in places, but the roar of the surf is always audible!
We descend into the valley at Gew Graze and go below the low cloud base again.
A damp Rory almost free of cloud for a while at the bottom of Gew Graze.
Highland Cattle sheltering in Gew Graze Valley bottom with us.
From this point on round to Kynance Cove, the cloud and mist came and went, but became less misty as we went. By the time we descended to Kynance Cove it was pretty clear, though I was soaking from the drizzle and mist of the walk so far today! There was a café at the cove and we sat outside it for a good while, taking advantage of the 'dry' spell and the half distant views out to sea and along the cliffs. I had a large 3 scoop tub of ice creams.
We set off again, happy to at least be able to see some views, though rain and fog kept blowing in periodically. It all added to the crashing roaring wave drama of it all really I guess?
The cloudbase has lifted slightly so views remain even as we climb out of Gew Graze.
Looking back along the coast at "The Horse".
Ahead the rocks and islands of Kynance Cove.
A bit nearer to Kynance Cove.
Rory on the final descent to the cafe at Kynance Cove with Lion Rock behind.
Looking out to Sea from Mullion Cove with Lion Rock on the left and Lizard Point behind.
Looking back at Kynance Cove as we begin the climb out after our ice creams.
The tops of the cliffs are still free of cloud as we look back at Kynance Cove again.
Pentreath Beach in dramatic roaring wave mood!
Looking back at Pentreath Beach and Lion Rock at its end with Kynance Rocks behind that,as we get ever nearer to Lizard Point.
Rory descends into another valley just after Pentreath Beach.
Looking back across the roaring Pentreath Beach again to Lion Rock and Kynance Cove behind in the mists and spray.
Pretty flowers reminding us that its actually summer on a day like this!
Looking across Polpeor Cove on Lizard Point at last as the cloud and drizzle clears a bit again.
We made it to Lizard point in a clear spot again and sat and had a ginger beer outside the most southerly café in mainland Britain, but moved inside when yet more rain blew in towards us. When it cleared away, we set off again. It was now predominantly clear, but wind blown bands of rain rushed in to drench us from time to time. It was a really nice walk though and not too up and down hill for a change!
Looking back from Polpeor Cove.
Cliffs and rough seas.
Looking back over Polbream Cove to the most southerly cafe on mainland Britain.
Lighthouse on Lizard Point.
Looking across Housel Bay to Pen Olver and Bass Point.
Bumble Rock below the lighthouse as we walk around the clifftops of Housel Bay.
Looking at some of the buildings of Lizard Village inland as we start our walk around Housel Bay.
Rough Seas at the Back of Housel Bay.
Rory having a pee, ok donning a coat, behind a landmark red brick wall on Bass Point.
Hot Point as we round Bass Point with Black head in the drizzly distance.
Looking back at Bass Point with its Look out station as we walk on towards Hot Point.
Looking back at Bass Point with its Look out station as we walk on towards Hot Point.
Lush cliff scenery as we approach the lifeboat station at Kilcobben/Church Cove.
The clifftop building of the lifeboat station at Kilcobben/Church Cove.
And the bottom building down a LOT of steps!
Looking back towards Hot Point, the top of the lifeboat station just visible in the middle ground.
Rory above Polgwidden looking towards Chough's Ogo Headland.
Natural Arch near Dollar Ogo.
At last the inlet to the harbour of Cadgwith is close at hand.
The Devil's Frying Pan just before we walk into the village of Cadgwith.
The houses of Cadgwith as we walk down through gardens towards the harbour.
Overlooking the harbour in Cadgwith.
Thatched cottages nestled in the valley at Cadgwith near the harbour.
Boats pulled up out of the water at Cadgwith Harbour.
Rory takes his boots off back at the car park in Cadgwith.
We got to Cadgwith which was a lovely little hamlet of thatched cottages, after passing an impressive natural arch/ex blow hole called the Devil's Frying Pan. We wanted a drink in the pub, but it was closed. We ended up in a Cellars/ Restaurant next door and sat outside with a pint, though they shut the gates just after we'd arrived so we didn't dawdle.
We walked up a footpath back to Rory's car at the car park and he drove me back to Mullion Cove. I drove back and got showered while Rory visited the cashpoint at Tesco's on his way back through Helston. When he'd showered he drove us down to the pub in Porkellis, which was open on Tuesday's thank goodness. I had fish cakes with warm potato salad, green beans and carrots, which was nice and all washed down with a couple of pints.
We went back and straight to bed. It was raining on and off again and blowing even more than the previous night I reckon!
Map of the day's walk:(click to enlarge)
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