Day 16 - Polzeath to Porthcothan

I got up and showered and dismantled the wet tent. I set off from the Valley Caravan Park at almost 9am. The weather looked fairly promising. I joined the road at the end of the drive and turned left along it until reaching the coast path off to the right just as the road starts to climb up out of the bay. I set off along the path - the Greenway - walking in front of the ridiculous campsite that I'd tried to get into first the previous afternoon!! Walkers boycott the place as far as I am concerned! I will certainly never return! Beyond the campsite, it was a pleasant and flat walk over low cliffs, with bits of beach below me and a niceview out across the estuary to Stepper Point and the golden sands of Harbour Cove.

The low cliffs with sand between from The Greenway as I leave Polzeath, with Stepper Point over the Camel Estuary beyond.

Looking down the Camel estuary just before Daymer Bay, with Padstow ahead and the golden sands of Harbour Cove visible on the right, across the estuary and Bree Hill to the left.

I crossed Daymer Bay on its golden sands and then ascended to the low cliff path around the front of the grassy Bree Hill. I could have carried on along the beach all the way to Rock with the tide being quite well out and maybe I should have done? Instead, after Bree Hill I made my way along the official route along the sand dunes at the back of the golden stretch of sand all the way to Rock. I just missed a ferry, which went out into the estuary as I approached the car park.

A fellow walker who seemed a bit simple, and a right character, came over to talk to me as I crossed the car park. He was very proud of his waterproof rucksack?? He'd set off from Bournemouth 6 weeks before and still seemed to be going strong! Well done to him!!!

The golden sands of the estuary and Padstown beyond from Bree Hill.

I just miss the Ferry as I approach Rock!

I sat on a bench for 15 mins to await the return of the ferry and then, as it pulled in close went to stand on the beach with other folk ready to climb on board. The ferry was filled with toffs talking about Fergie going to some memorial service for someone or other that they knew. I managed to get a single fare of £1.50, though they only advertised returns on all the signs, which was £3. It was nice to be actually ON the water rather than looking out at it for a change! It was all over in ten minutes or less though and I traipsed up the ramp to the harbour front walk in Padstow. I bumped into the bloke of middle aged couple who'd lost his wife briefly when he went back to retrieve their guidebook from wherever they'd left it. They were planning to make it to Porthcothan that night and then call it a week. Looking at the map I'd have to do the same and make it to Porthcothan that night if it wasn't going to leave too much to do on my last day, as I now had planned to finish at Newquay with its transport options etc. As I made my way along to the pretty little harbour proper I found his wife and told her that he'd lost her and had gone up the path to see if she was waiting up there. Padstow was pleasant if busy with tourists. Definitely somewhere I'd like to revisit for a few days

The Ferry is back in no time and landing on the beach.

Nice to have a different perspective for a few minutes.

The little harbour at Padstow. A bustling and pleasant place to eat your breakfast and lunch!

I bought two pasties, one for breakfast and one for lunch and seeing as it was mid way between the two I ate them both on a bench by the harbour to save carriage - one bacon leek and cheese (yummy) and one spicy chick pea (not so yummy). I also visited the cash point for yet MORE money and then set off along the coast path, sort of hoping to catch up with middle aged couple at some point during the day, though I never managed it.

The path was tarmacced and angled slightly uphill across close mown grass to the large First World War memorial cross above the estuary. It was actually quite sunny, and consequently quite warm. I passed the concrete foundations of an old cannon with some of the rusted metal fitments still in place at the aptly named Gun Point and then rounded the bend to walk behind the sands of Harbour Cove. The path then angled slightly inland and was quite overgrown in parts, to go behind dunes at the back of the beach and then around a boggy bit through wonderful dark alleyways through stunted trees and shrubs. the shade was a welcome change so far today! Emerging from this area, a short, edge of field stretch bought me to the picturesque little bay and slipway of Hawker's Cove, with its little row of terraced houses and the old life boat station.

Looking back across the Camel Estuary to Rock as I climb out of Padstow to the War Memorial Cross.

Ahead, the mouth of the estuary from near Gun Point. Stepper Point on the left and beyond it, on the right, Pentire Point which I'd rounded yesterday.

Looking along the golden sands of Harbour Cove after emerging from the dark alleyways beneath low bushes.	Approaching Hawker's Cove with its row of terraces and old life boat station.
Hawker's Cove itself with the tide well in.	From here the path steepened to the end of Stepper Point where I stopped for a short while to drink one of the cans of diet coke that I'd bought just before leaving Padstow. From here, it was a short walk along to Daymark Tower.

Looking back across the estuary to Polzeath from Stepper Point.

Daymark Tower on Stepper Point.

View of Gulland Rock out to sea through the window.

Ahead, the far distant looking Trevose Head. I was already tired and had to get a good way BEYOND there to get to Porthcothan and make Newquay a possible ending place for the last day!!

Shortly after this there was a good view back down the Camel Estuary, but for the next few miles the coastal scenery off to the right was beautiful, but pretty uninspiring compared to what I had been walking by of late. The sound of the waves on the rocks below was pretty though! After Gunver Head it improved and got more dramatic again. As I rounded the last bit of headland to Trevone Bay I came to the collapsed cave and gingerly peered down into the depths of the round hole in the middle of the field to sea the crashing waves on the beach at its bottom.

The lovely view back up the Camel Estuary as I walked further along Stepper Point and looked landwards.

Looking back at Stepper Point with Daymark Tower and Pentire Point beyond the Camel Estuary, from Gunver Head.

The scenery becomes a bit more dramatic again after Gunver Head.

Looking back at Gunver Head.

Approaching Trevone with the people peering down into the collapsed cave on the right.

Peering down at the waves below.

I carried on, on the gentle grassy descent to Trevone Bay. I didn't stop and it didn't seem to take me long to reach the next bay of Harlyn Bay, where I sat on tables by a snack van with a can of diet coke. The first light drizzle of the day blew in and passed while I sat there. I walked along the beach for a while, there being no other option at this point so i'm not sure what you would do if walking at exceptionally high tides? Wait I guess?? And then climbed up to the top of the low cliffs running behind the small sandy inlets on the beach. It was a lovely walk along here all the way to Mother Ivy's bay, with rocky cliffs enclsing small coves of golden sand between them, and although it was quite dismal and grey by this point , the golden sands made it all seem sunny anyway.

Looking back at the round hole of the collapsed cave before Trevone from just beyond Newtrain Bay.

The approach to the next beach of Harlyn Bay.

Looking back at Harlyn's sands as I join the low cliffs at the back of the bay.

The little sandy coves as I walk along...	...from Harlyn to Mother Ivy's Bay.
Approaching the golden sands of Mother Ivy's Bay.	The lifeboat station and Merope Rocks from Mother Ivy's bay.

From Mother Ivy's Bay it was a climb up to Trevose Head, though a pretty gentle one. I could see Hartland Point - 40 miles away as the crow flies and basically the beginning of my journey this week, even though it was quite gloomy by now!

I rounded the end of the headland, with its white lighthouse and then passed in front of a disused quarry workings, descending gradually to pass another even bigger collapsed cave than the one by Trevone. I stopped to sit for a while on a stile near this. I was really weary and quite foot sore by this point!

Looking back at the golden sands of Mother Ivy's Bay as I start the walk out to Trevose Head.

Another little sandy cove as I draw near to the life boat station beyond.

As I round Trevose head the white lighthouse appears.

I pass it before reaching old quarry workings.

Not to be outdone I set off again, the campsite above Porthcothan at least visible in the far distance from this point, so I had something to aim for! I made it to Booby Bay, though I saw none in evidence:) Maybe if it had been sunnier!? and then along the back of the larger Constantine Bay. It was a short walk across a low headland to reach Treyarnon Bay. I'd thought I might camp here before setting off this morning, but carried on by. Leaving the bay, the coastline was dramatic, rugged and beautiful again with numerous narrow inlets with golden sands and crashing waves below. As I passed near a campsite, I thought I'd go and investigate, but found nowhere to check in or pay and so after walking through several fields of the site heading in the direction I needed to be going anyway, I rejoined the official route slightly further along.

My final approach from Trevose Head to Booby Bay.

After Constantine Bay I reach Treyarnon Bay.	And then back out on the next low headland.
There are lots of fingerlike inlets here...	which are beautiful and dramatic.
With rocky islands when I rejoin the official route after traipsing through the large campsite.	The remaining coastline to Porthcothan was wonderful and as I passed a tiny general store I bought two lots of sandwiches and another bottle of diet lemonade. This turned out to be a very fortuitous decision as the farm campsite, though huge, was very basic, but at 3 quid for the night who cares! I walked across two field paths heading up from the coast path to reach the edge of the site and then asked someone in the first field where the reception was. They told me it was the farmhouse right up by the road and so I had two more large fields of caravans and tents to walk through to reach it! Just what I needed after a wearying 14 miles! The farmer directed me to yet another two fields of predominantly tents beyond the farmhouse, where I pitched up for the night as near to the single shower on the end of the farmhouse as I could manage. I ate my sandwiches, wrote the diary which was uncomfortable lying down and then went to bed before dark, shattered!